good evening. waves been super fun. people been super nice. plenty of smiles and lots of aloha. summer is finished and the north shore season is coming up. but first, i have a trip to okinawa leaving in 6 days. OMG, i better start getting ready!!! have a great evening.
for the past 2 weeks, i’ve been leaving my house 30 minutes earlier than usual. just feel like getting outdoors in the early morning and working out. so i pull up to the park, i do 30 minutes of exercise, and get on with my day. my blood is flowing, my mind is clear, and i’m ready to surf. live healthy!
had another good surf session this morning with Fujiki-san. he’s surfing better and better. Hey Fujiki-san, thank you for the awesome surf sessions. i hope you like your new board! please heave a safe trip back to japan and see you again. keep on surfing!
you know what i miss? i miss waking up at 4:30am, driving out to the north shore, paddling out to backdoor at dark, getting barreled, coming in to grab my camera, then swimming back out, waiting in the impact zone and waiting for a huge wave, then having a surfer run me over, then taking the shot! north shore season is right around the corner and i’m getting excited! thank you Go-Naminori official blogger U-Ske for taking this photo of me and making me realize how much i miss the underwater world. see you there! haha. and hey U-ske, tell me where all those ramen places are!!! i’m jealous!
