apple introduced the new iPhone 5 yesterday. the amazing thing about the whole story is how apple kept it a secret. every time they develop a new product, nobody in the world knows. nobody leaks information to the media, and somehow, apple does a great job in keeping a secret. how do they do that? i bet there are about a million people in china that assembled the new iPhone 5 and nobody leaked any information out to the media? how the heck did apple control that? what an amazing company! i wonder what they are working on next?
when ever i teach surfing to people, i always stress the importance of using the right equipment. i have over 30 surfboards for a reason. each one is designed for different waves and conditions. if i take the wrong board out in the wrong surf, things can go wrong. take this day at backdoor for example. i thought the waves were going to be small so i took out my small board. then the waves started getting bigger so i thought i should go in to get a longer board. ahh. too much hassle so i just use my short board on big waves. here comes a set, i paddle hard, take off, and i knew i was too late. a longer board would have placed me perfectly into the barrel, but instead, my short board got stuck in the lip and all i could do was jump and hope i don’t hit the reef. lucky, nothing happened to me as my friend Neal Miyake took this photo. but hey, i enjoyed the jump. wiping out is good. why? because it wakes you up and makes you realize that the ocean is much stronger than man. so respect it!
