good evening. wow!! what a great day for waves around the island. is this an endless summer or what? i checked everywhere this morning and it looked pretty crowded. so i drove 15 minutes to this secret spot that catches the south/east swell and guess what? only one guy out. yeah, it was super fun and it felt good to surf in warm clean water with nobody around. i heard the waves on the north shore were good too but why drive all the way out there when i can surf head high waves 10 minutes from my house? i love this place!!!
diamond head lighthouse has been looking pretty dam good these past days. when ever there is a south/east swell with no winds, that’s the best spot on the south shore. i even seen some barrels out there. just watch out for the reef and the guys breaking into cars on the top…
then i went to china town to pick up fruits for this weeks diet. it feels good to eat healthy and drink no alcohol. i’m just wondering how long that will last? haha…
imagine throwing all this into a pot of boiling water, put some dashi, miso, and maybe some seafood. you got yourself an awesome nabe!! itadakimasu!!!
then take some of these black chicken feet to go along with your beer? yuck!!!
**another bigger north swell on the way but before that, get ready for more days of perfect glassy surf around the whole island. gosh, i’m the luckiest guy enjoying this endless summer….
