good morning. did you hear about the big south swell coming next week? well, it’s out of season and since the south swells are hard to predict, we’ll just have to wait and see. if we get it, score. if we don’t, it’s normal for this time of year. the waves have been good here in hawaii for the past 5 weeks and everybody is already happy. lot’s of smiles on the beach and in the water. north shore will awaken again on thursday with a 6-8′ north/west swell with light winds making for perfect conditions. where else in the world would you want to be if you’re a surfer?
i had a really fun 2 days with this girl. Ikezawa-san spoke perfect english so i didn’t have to think before i said anything. the conversation just flowed and so did her surfing. super energetic and super fun!
Ikezawa-san is interested in trees. me? not really. but after we went to mounalua gardens to see the famous hitachi tree, i felt a connection or something. next time i’m planning to take my bbq grill, a few beers, friends, and hang out under the most famous tree in the world.
