Flat Summer Days In Hawaii…..

392

good morning. gosh, nothing on the way for waves in japan. seems like at least a 7 day break. umm, bummer. heard the waves in hawaii are still kind of small. it must be the smallest summer ever? glad i’m not a part of that. just wanted to say to my hawaiian friends, hawaii’s probably the worst place you want to be in the summer. it’s just too dam far from the southern storms. if you want consistent overhead surf everyday in the summer, go to tahiti, samoa, or indonesia. once you go, you’ll know what i mean. just ask carter and russ. and if you are thinking about coming to japan to chase typhoons? if you don’t have a lot of money or a lot of friends that know the scoops, forget it. japan is so fickle and it’s like gambling. you can go home a loser, or you can go home with the best surf session of your life….

this was the other day. gosh, now i wish i surfed more….. don’t know when the next time waves like this is going to come….

pulled this photo of the surfers journal website. thought it was cool….. another helicopter shot….

and leaving you with a sunset shot from the japan sea yesterday evening. freaking awesome….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide