good evening. when i paddled out to diamond head at 5:30 this morning, it was dark. and when i got out to the lineup, there were 5 guys out already. gosh, i guess there are a lot of hungry dawn patrollers…. the waves were super fun and glassy. and if you seen the sunrise this morning, oh my gosh!!! i didn’t know you could see the sunrise from in the water. so when i seen this big orange sun rising from the horizon, it was pretty awesome. i can’t wait to do it again. maybe tomorrow???
i came in at 7am and the parking was full already. i must have counted 100 surfers in the water. but it felt good to get it early…
when i was diving yesterday, i was putting a fish on my floater and it stabbed me in the hand. one of the fins went deep down inside i felt like somebody put a knife in me. my hand started to get swollen and super itai so i called my doctor. he said “get your ass to the emergency room”… so that’s what i did…
even though i hate hospitals, i feel really safe in the ones in america. i think we got the best doctors and i’m glad i went today. my doctor was a paddle board surfer so it was even better. i took x-rays and yes, there is a small piece of fin broken off deep into my hand. hand surgery? your kidding? no, i’m not. what’s going on????
i was super bummed out driving back from the hospital. so what did i do? i fried that freaking fish that poked me and ate him whole…… and he was good!!! and i felt better!!! but my hand still hurts so bad….
