good mid morning. gosh, i scored again!!! woke up early and surfed as the sun rose. another beautiful day with beautiful waves. i looked at diamond head and didn’t feel like surfing with 100 people so i went to a secret spot and had it to myself all morning!!! i’m so happy and now i’m going to have a peaceful day!!! hope you have one too!!!
last night was crab festival for me. there is this place in town where i love to go once in a while. the ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT alaskan king crab legs are the best. i ate 4 big plates of crab, along with sushi, teriyaki chicken, tempura, and a whole lot more…. i was dipping my crab in butter, then vinegar, then butter, then vinegar…. totemo oishikatta!!!
for all you girls out there. if you ever come to hawaii and a guy walks up to you on the beach offering free surfing lessons, this is how it’s going to be. i saw this guy walk up to a japanese girl sitting on the beach. he offered to teach her how to surf. then he only had one surfboard. i knew what was coming…. so unless you want somebody smelling your ass, you better be careful… haha..
did you see the movie Departures or Okuribito yet? oh my gosh!! it won an academy award for “best foreign language film”. i finally got to see it and it was a lot more heavy than i expected. i don’t want to blow the plot for the people that didn’t see it but it’s a must see movie. death is a touchy subject and when that time comes, the cultural difference between america and japan are totally different. after all these years, i finally understand the japanese culture when it comes to death, and i think it’s the most beautiful thing in the world. yeah, believe it or not, this movie touched me and totally changed my view on paying respects to loved ones that passed away…. go and check it out!!!
