Changes…

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i came to bali in 1993 for the first time. i’m still amazed on how things changed so fast. hiroko-san asked me which bali i liked better, the old or new. i said the old. back then, there wasn’t as much greed, there was no internet so we scored padang padang so many times i cannot count, and hiking down to dreamland with ganti was another amazing experience. there was no buildings, no people, and the ocean was ours. now? it’s worst than waikiki. so yeah, i prefer the old bali….

uluwatu has changed too. hotels and villas everywhere!!! the wave is the same but the location isn’t as magical as it was before….

the things that didn’t change are all in the backstreets. this is the part of bali i like. i hope the tradition never dies….
well, i’m going back to japan tonight. 14 hour stopover in osaka, then going back to my home, hawaii. it’s been a long 16 day tour. so many cool things have happened. as soon as i get back to hawaii, i will download all my photos and show you all the wonderful things and people we experienced!!! can’t wait. and guess what? a big north/west swell hitting hawaii on the 29th? lucky again??? shoots!!! i love how the waves follow me. people call it lucky, i call it “Magic”….. have a great day!!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide