the weather is getting weird recently? no, it’s normal for october as it’s transition month from summer to winter. we always get these calm wind days and sometimes the south/west winds like today. hazy, hot, humid, and volcanic vog from the big island. you can just feel the season changing and i love it. big waves on the way and shifting winds making for good surfing and diving days. and also makes for the most colorful sunsets!
i woke up this morning and was happy to see this photo of my personal translator Miwa-san over there in ishigaki island. and to see Kara-san and everybody looking so happy, i wanted to jump into the photo. i love the island life and these guys have all big hearts. and what made me happier was for Miwa-san to enter the awesome surfing world i’ve been living my whole life. surf and friends. there is nothing else we need.
i took this kid surfing for the first time. Arata-kun is 13 years old and one of the brightest kids i’ve ever met. fluent in japanese/chinese/english, advanced diving license, and dreams ahead. he made surfing for the first time look to easy. smiling, surfing, and a bright future ahead. Hey Arata-kun, had fun surfing with you today. Good job on the long wave almost into the rocks. haha. and good job eating the huge kua’aina bacon burger. good luck on your master diving license, and hope to surf with you again. have a safe flight back to shanghai!
i’m starting to feel the urge to go deep again. been to so many countries off the beaten path and love the people, food, and culture. i got off the boat up on some island in the nusa teragana, indonesia region and walked into the village with my camera. i got some amazing photos and amazing memories. watching the simple life with all the kids happy with what they have made me realize that all we need is love. no iphones, no computers, and no toys. it’s just everyday survival life. traveling in areas like this makes me want to go deeper and deeper. i want to feel the culture before it’s all gone. and the sad thing is that one day, it will be gone. i’ve seen it happen too often. so i’m checking my global map and dreaming of my next deep trip. can’t wait till my next vacation!
