yesterday has had to be one of the most beautiful day of the year. it was just picture perfect. the weather forecasters were expecting heavy vog, strong south/west winds, and afternoon rain. nothing even close to that happening. it was picture perfect from morning till dusk. our first huge north/west swell rolled in early this year. it washed off all the sand on the beaches so now every surf spot on the north shore is set up for perfect barrels. it took till december last year, but this year, it’s only early october and the north shore is awake! and not only that, we’re expecting another south summer swell this week! lucky if you live in hawaii.
if it wasn’t for the apple store genius bar, i’d be spending thousands of dollars on having my computer serviced and fixed. i still can’t believe it’s free! the only bummer thing is that i spend so much time in that store. i bought a new computer last week and it’s taking me over 10 hours to get it set up the way i want it. i just can’t keep up with technology.
had a great time at dinner with my family. we ate, ate, and ate. 7 lobsters, a whole duck, and much more. i’m so stoked to see these brothers getting along so well. each one got each others back both in and out of the water. what an awesome family!
then lucky kelia moniz. to have these 4 brothers looking after her is priceless. the love, respect, and support of this famous surfing family is so good to watch. kelia is taking over the world as a model/surfer, and the boys are making their way up the heavily localized pecking order of the infamous north shore of hawaii. i couldn’t be a prouder uncle than i am right now. i love these kids!
i surfed with inaida-san and yuki-san over a hundred times already. to see their level getting higher and higher is awesome. and to surf everyday together is making our friendship stronger. the stories, the laughs, the smiles, the great rides, and the heavy wipeouts. it’s all fun! to see friends enjoying surfing so much makes me enjoy it even more. back in okinawa, kimura-san said in his speech that the ocean has brought us all together. i couldn’t agree any more.
like i said, yesterday couldn’t have been any better. just a few surfers in the water, perfect conditions, and just us surfers enjoying a tropical hawaiian day. what more in life could you ask for? nothing.
