Fly This by Jeannie Chesser…

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good morning. 8:30 am and i’m feeling pretty good. slept like a baby. checking the waves now and there seems to be a little south swell in town. no winds so i better get on it already. bowls? diamond head? ummm… north shore looks super fun too. waves all over. tough choice. anyway, i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day…

i stole this photo off rikio’s blog. these are two of the nicest people in the world. the kimura-san family….

when i came home yesterday, this was the first thing i ate. a fresh yamari shirasu donbori….

this is my high school friend sheldon’s tattooed back. sheldon knows how to fight and if you ever see him in a dark alley, run for your life. and if he ever catches you, say you know me. then he won’t beat you up that much… nice tattoos sheldon….

jeannie chesser has an art show event coming up on friday, nov. 6th. see you there…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide