wow, the north shore was good and the south shore was good. waves all around the island with great conditions. i surfed 4.5 hours today like usual and i don’t know how longer my skin will take all this sunshine. there is a little south swell running and the conditions are perfect. super stoked on days like this.
i surfed with Nomura-san this morning. i was surprised on good he surfed. he ended up catching more waves than me, and did more turns than me. i was super stoked to meet a underground japanese ripper. strong paddler, good style, and super fast. after catching all those waves, we went to my favorite spot to eat, Da Spot! can’t beat a curry plate with a smoothie for under $10. cheap and good! i love this place!
the first time i went to Da Spot was about 6 years ago when they first opened down a side street in mccully. i ordered the egyptian chicken back then it’s been my favorite ever since. then i tried the #20 pineapple smoothie. so good!
a lot of people have been asking me how’s the diving been. diving? do i dive? haha. i’ve been so busy that i forgot what diving was. and i forgot what my boat looks like. or do i even have a boat? haha. it’s been a while since i hunted for dinner and the more people ask me about it, the more i want to go. there is a little hole where these monster ulua’s hang out. i haven’t checked it in a long time and i bet there are some big monsters in there. maybe this weekend? now i’m starting to wish for flat waves but that’s not going to happen as the next south swell is coming to town. help!
