Ripper, Shimanchu, and Smiling Kid!

264

oh my gosh! the south shore endless summer continues. ever since i got back, the waves have been perfect! if you’re a surfer, you’re happy. i’m happy and i hope this endless summer continues till next year. good to see my friends in the water smiling! put on sunscreen and see you in the water.
DSCN0248
hey Nomura-san, you surfed so good! i was really impressed with you paddling power and surfing speed. keep on surfing and hope to see again in hawaii. have a safe flight back to japan!
DSCN0251
i had a good time with these shimanchu from okinawa. good friends, good waves, good time, and good smiles. enjoy your last day here in hawaii! mensore!
DSCN0264
yesterday afternoon i took this cute kid Kanta surfing. usually when i take kids surfing, i we catch 2 or 3 waves and it’s enough. but for Kanta, we surfed, surfed, and surfed. we ended up catching 20 waves total and 2 waves all the way from the outside to the beach. this kid had so much energy that i had to come home and take a nap. at 8 years old, Kanta has a bright future as a surfer.
DSCN0279
after every wave, i jumped off the surfboard to keep the balance of the board. and every time i came up, Kanta asked me “are you ok?” what a caring little kid. just to see him smiling while riding all those long waves made me so happy. this kid has a big heart and i’m sure he’ll become a part of the ocean. i can’t wait to take him again!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide