good evening. wow, woke up 4:45am and drove out to the north shore. walking down the sand and paddling out was pretty nerve racking but i wasn’t alone. a lot of the local boys out there felt the same after they caught their first wave. it’s like breaking the ice. after i caught my first wave, i felt like my winter season has begun. surfed, shot photos, and drove back to town for 2 more sessions. a long day, but i’m a pretty happy sunburnt guy.
today felt like january. i’ve never seen these kind of conditions in october before. the waves were perfect!!!
today was locals only. t.j barron on a set at off the wall. i’d say solid 6′ hawaiian scale.
joel centaio the happy guy. always smiling and always surfing good.
elai olsen got the wave of the day. super long tube at backdoor.
today was the first good day on the north shore. not enough waves for everybody so there was a lot of dropping in. i’d hate to be the guy behind.
i just trip out on the lack of respect these days. if you have some sense of surfing history, ross williams is a legend. a top 16 world pro surfer who lives on the north shore has not right to be dropped in on. this is actually pretty sad because ross is one of the nicest locals on earth.
these are january to march conditions. but this is only october. get ready for a great winter!
randall paulson got the best pipe waves today. good to see him surfing from bowls to pipe!
yes, my 4 nephews were all out this morning and it couldn’t have been a better feeling. this is micah moniz on a pipe left.
after i surfed, i hung out at the billabong house. my sister made me great banana pancakes, my nephew served me, and i couldn’t have been happier. this is seth moniz, the next surfing stud!
after surfing the north shore, i drove back into town and surfed 2x. even thought the waves were much smaller, i had more fun. the laughs, the sun, the fun, and the memories today will last a lifetime. a long day, a great massage, an awesome dinner, and i’m going to bed now. good night and a gallery should be up on go-naminori.com soon. sweet dreams.
