if you don’t surf, you won’t really know what i’m going to talk about now. surfing is not just about going out and catching a wave. there are rules, there are locals, and there is respect in every lineup around the world. some easy, some hard, and some untouchable. i’ve surfed heavy localized spots around the world and the one thing i learned is “be alert, and be respective.” know your surroundings, know the pecking order, know who’s good, know who’s not, know who fights, know who doesn’t, and know everything you possibly can to avoid trouble. from people getting run over, to people getting beaten up, it happens everywhere around the world. i’ve seen some fights at practically every surf spot on this island, along with surf spots in japan and indonesia. there is a local mannerism everywhere you surf and if you don’t know it, it’s best to stay out of the water. all said, let me introduce you to the heaviest localized surf spot in the world, BACKDOOR/PIPELINE! one mistake could lead you on the beach bleeding, or in the hospital. iv’e seen both happen before.
if you’re local, it’s already hard. but if you’re a foreigner, it’s even harder.
yesterday, i was surfing for a while and when i looked around in the lineup, i seen japanese pro kid surfer Gai Sato. i was watching him and was hoping he caught a wave in the heavily localized lineup. see him in the black/blue wetsuit? after i went in, i grabbed my camera to try to shoot one of his waves. i waited for over an hour and he didn’t catch anything. he tried but the locals didn’t let any wave go unridden.
then i see his golden chance. he paddles, and couldn’t get into the wave. most spectators would be disappointed, but not me. even if Gai didn’t catch a wave all day, i wouldn’t put this kid down. just to be out there in the most localized lineup in the world is something. most pro surfers hide, most pro surfers don’t even want to paddle out. but Gai sitting out there and putting in his time means a lot. one of these days, he will get a huge long barrel. and i hope i’m there to capture it! until then, i’m sure he will be out there trying and trying. his time will come! Go-Gai!
