North Traffic, Pancakes at Pipeline, DK Steak, and Power Nap

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can you believe i was in traffic before 6am yesterday morning out at wahiawa? the bridge has been closed for repairs so we all have to go around. omg, i hope it’s not like this every morning. that won’t be too fun.
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taking this walk and seeing the waves for the first time of the season is pretty nerve racking. this is the main spot on the north shore. people have been made famous, and people have died here also. so watching and hearing the huge powerful waves crash on the shallow reef wakes you up. it’s north shore time. it’s time to charge. it’s time to get barreled. and it’s time to take risks. this is our office and it’s not for everybody.
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after surfing for 2.5 hours, i started taking photos. then my sister made me the best banana pancakes in the world. eggs and things and cafe kaila can’t even come close. pancakes in front of pipeline is priceless. thanks sis!
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oh, went to the DK Steakhouse in the Marriot hotel the other night. i’d have to say the best steak in hawaii for sure. order the 30 day aged rib eye steak and have it cooked medium medium/rare. and start off with the jumbo shrimp cocktail. oh so good!
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then make sure to drink some good red wine with the steak. this bottle is the best red wine i’ve ever drank. love every sip after every bite of the juicy steak.
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this is the part i usually don’t show people. the tired part of me. i run around all day long and am probably the busiest person in the world. sometimes i get a 10 minute break and when i do, i find someplace to close my eyes. yesterday, it was in the back seat. a 10 minute power nap revives me, gives me energy, and i’m ready to keep on moving!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide