North Winds, Military Training, Omiyage, Chinese, and Busted in Bali

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photo 4
for the first time in a long time, there was a slight north direction in the winds yesterday. that’s why it was so cool, and that’s why the sky was so blue! north brings fresh cool air and blue sky, south brings haze and yellow sky from the big island volcano. when i was surfing yesterday, i was really thinking about the blue sky here that makes this island so beautiful.
photo 5
once again, i’m in boot camp with Tae-san. Tae-san wants to get really good in surfing so i’m like a sergeant training his soldier. after each wave, we go into detail on how to get better. and the long paddle in, i’m yelling “paddle, paddle, paddle” until Tae-san’s arms looks like it can’t move anymore. it’s hard training, but it’s working pretty fast. i can see improvement after each wave ridden.
photo 1
japan has the coolest omiyage or gifts. wrapped from the heart and the presentation can’t be beat. thank you Tae-san as i love surprises.
photo 2
some hello kitty furekake for breakfast. itadakimasu!
photo 3
this huge chinese plate lunch for $8. this is another one of my favorite restaurants that changed since i started going there. the food just doesn’t taste as good as it use to. i couldn’t even finish this.
INDONESIA-JAPAN-COURT-DRUGS
last, meet this 17 year old japanese kid who went to bali with his mom. the kid bought some marijuana, got caught, and now is serving 6 months jail time in bali’s jail. he got a longer vacation than expected. he’s lucky he didn’t get the death penalty. whew. stay away from drugs!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide