First Experience: Pipeline….

321

good evening. went out to the north shore with my nephews isaiah and joshua today. we met matchi and the boys out there and surfed twice. once at pipeline and once at v-land. the waves weren’t that big but it was still overhead for the kids….

this is isaiah moniz. isaiah is 13 years old and sponsored by billabong and hic. isaiah’s dream is to go to bali next year….

we pulled up to ehukai. pupukea looked pretty fun but was kind of crowded….

it was 2 years ago when i tricked my nephews. at that time, they never surfed pipe before and were so scared of that place. so i parked my car down at off-the-wall and we walked to the beach. they asked me where this was and i told them it was a secret beach break. so we went surfing at pipe. then about an hour into the session, isaiah was looking at the beach and thought something was strange. he was wondering why the volcom house and gerry lopez’s house was right in front of the break. then he asked me if this was pipe? i said no. sorry isaiah, uncle lied… but your going to thank me in the future because today was almost 2 years to the day and you paddled out there today and ripped it. oh, it was also shun and ryota’s first time surfing pipe. when we were waxing our boards by the car, shun told me he was nervous. so cute…. but the boys went out there and surfed good. i was stoked….

this is matchi, shun, isaiah, joshua, and ryota on the north shore. we just came in from surfing v-land and oh my gosh, it was so cold…. i wore a long sleeve top and was still cold. the kids and i had my heater in my car on all the way back to town. i’m still cold. going to take a hot shower and get under some warm blankets. good night….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide