good evening. wow, the waves were awesome today! big and solid ground swell. i think this must have had to be our biggest one this summer and it’s october? lucky town surfers! there were solid 5′ sets at bowls. stoked to surf with friends including former world champion sunny garcia. he’s looking in top shape and will be getting some of the best barrels on the north shore this season. had a fun day in the water and really happy to see all the happy surfers. tomorrow should still be good too so stay tuned for some big wave summer swell!
what is pterygium? it is a growth on your eye that bothers the crap out of you. check out this photo of my poor eye. i had it on my left eye 6 years ago, lived with it for 2 years, had a surgery that went wrong, then another one, and finally it was gone after thousands of dollars and tons of pain. then the other day, i saw a growth on my right eye? omg!!! shock! another surgery? another month out of the water? please no!!!!
so i went to the eye doctors office today. the best in hawaii of course.
he put eye drops in my eyes to dilate them. he checked it, and gave me the news. Mr. Fukunaga, your eyes are perfect so you don’t have to worry.” omg! i was so happy! $7000 per eye, one month out of the water, and knives and needles going in and out of my eyes are like a nightmare. i can’t believe i did that twice. but thank goodness i’m ok for now.
ever had your eyes dilated? try going outside in the sun right after. it’s super blinding! good thing my doctor gave me some stevie wonder glasses to wear home.
the south swell continues all week as the north shore wakes up again on thursday. enjoy surfing and enjoy life! goodnight.
