good evening. wow! good surf this morning. then the wind came onshore and junky. i was driving home at 1pm and i saw the dark clouds coming, and then i looked at the coconut trees and it was still. no wind? what? i u-turn, rush back to bowls, and i seen a perfect 4′ set peeling down the line like it was somewhere in indonesia or something. i grab my board, run to the beach, paddle my fastest out, and find out there are only a few surfers in the water. 2 locals that are my friends so we traded off set after set. on my first wave, i did 6 backside off the lips and i was super stoked. this was probably my best summer session in hawaii by far. just sitting on the outside with friends taking turns on perfect overhead waves. i felt like i was in indonesia or something. we were laughing, smiling, and talking story. i couldn’t be a happier surfer than i am right now. thank you mother nature!
i had a great time this morning with Niimura-san and Murakami-san. the waves were huge but we all managed to surf and make it back to the beach safely. it’s their second time to hawaii and they only know about waikiki so i took them outside the busy city. surf, eat, and sightsee. what a wonderful morning!
this swell was pretty powerful. the waves were super thick and had a lot of power. a few people broke boards today and i’m glad it wasn’t mine.
remember the boat i saw anchored off magic island 2 days ago? well, it’s all in pieces now and the main part is sunk right in the channel of ala moana. a dangerous place to be and the owner is going to have to pay a lot of money to get it out of there. after thinking about it, i should have paddled over to the boat that morning i saw it and moved it myself. i could have dove down, grabbed the anchor, and let the wind take it out a little farther out to a safer place. oh well, maybe next time. but it’s so weird how i imagined exactly how it was going to sink. crazy.
yesterday, a 23 year old california surfer got eaten by a shark right in front of his friend. he died. it happened at santa barbara but don’t be fooled, it can happen anywhere.
well, tomorrow i’m waking up early because the morning session is going to be super glassy. rain and thunderstorm on the way but i don’t care. i just want to surf, surf, and surf! i just can’t get enough! have a great evening and a wonderful sleep. goodnight.
