First light, UH Manoa, Bike Stabbing, Mexican Lifestyle

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with the weird winds we’ve been having this month, the morning is always the best conditions. i pass by diamond head every morning and when i see the perfect waves roll in, i get super excited! i can see people running down the mountain to get into the water. such a cool location for a morning surf session before the work day begins. and if you get down there early enough, you can see the sunrise. and if you haven’t, you don’t know what you’re missing.
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i was at U.H of Hawaii yesterday. i was people watching for a while and was just laughing because i could just imagine myself there 20 years ago. i use to walk around college with sand on my feet. i use to go to class and dream about my morning session. eat pizza in the cafeteria everyday for lunch. study in the library until 2am. till this day, i still can’t believe i graduated. i sacrificed 5 years of my life to live the wonderful life i’m living now. was it worth it? back then, no way. but now when i think about it, it was well worth it. if it wasn’t for my education, i wouldn’t be living this dream life.
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i still can’t believe this guy got stabbed by a stranger in the day light at tantalas. he was just riding his bike when the guy got out of his car and stabbed him. how crazy is that?
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and the guy didn’t get caught yet. next time i go up there, i’m taking a knife to protect myself.
afd
corona and tequila. i went deep into mexico about 6 years ago and lived the mexican life. surf early morning, eat tacos for lunch and dinner, and sip on corona beers while taking tequila shots at night. it was there when a wise mexican introduced me to Don Julio. ever since, we’ve been friends for years. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide