what’s the perfect wave? well, for me, it’s a right hander barrel. a dream session would be perfect 4-6′ waves with nobody out or just a few friends. this wave was at a secret spot on the other side of the world. there was nobody out, the waves were perfect, offshore, and barreling. i paddled out shortly after taking this photo and got barreled on every single wave. easy take off, easy bottom turn, and easy barrel. i can’t wait to go back there again.
here is another secret spot perfect wave. this wave wasn’t so easy. the wave was so thick that you had to take off under the lip. and if you’re lucky enough to make it to the bottom, all you had to do was a slight right turn and the wave will go over your head. yeah, even thought if you didn’t want to get barreled, you will get barreled. this day was probably one of my best barrel session of my life. photo by matsu.
my sisters been getting pretty good at shooting. i know for a fact that she doesn’t know how to do photoshop so these are the actual colors she’s pulling into her camera. most people shoot automatic but shooting manual is the only way to get images like this. good job sis!
north shore girls just want to have fun!
shooting sunset photos is my favorite! to see the light, to see the subject, and to combine them both in one photo pretty much captures the moment. i remember going to check the waves in the evening in okinawa and as i walked up to the wall, i seen the moment. i took out my camera, i shot this photo, then this girl looked behind and said “what are you doing?” in japanese. i said “oh, sorry sista” in english and walked away. she must of thought i was shooting a photo of her butt, but my main subject in this photo was the single fin surfboard with the sun going down behind. the girl just made it better. haha.
