well, 3 days later and i’m finally feeling back to normal mentally and physically. i was thinking back and if i took my time paddling, it would have been a lot easier on my body. my body is sore all over and my nipples feel like it’s going to fall off from the rash. i have a friend who did the same course for his first time last month during the competition and did it in 3 hours 48 minutes. all i wanted to do was come close to that. now i know what i’m capable of and now i know i can do the molokai to oahu. but the next time, things will be different. first, i will hook up a big water bottle to my board. water is important. second, i will never look back. looking back made me roll over about 8 times. but it was so hard not to look back at the beautiful sunrise. third, maybe i will wear a leash. my friends couldn’t believe i didn’t have a leash. honestly, i didn’t even know people wore leashes. but when i was out there, i was thinking “wow, if a wave hits me and separates me from my board, the wind will take my board one way, and the current will take me the other. meaning, i will be screwed! nobody around, no help, and i’ll be lost at sea.” then there’s things i won’t change. first, i won’t change leaving at dusk. leaving in the dark was such an adrenaline rush! my blood was pumping right when i hit the water. and to see the huge shore break waves was nuts! the birds, the mountains, the waves, the wind, and the beautiful view of the sun rising was the highlight of the whole paddle. another thing i won’t change is doing it alone. it’s a whole different game when you’re out there alone. yeah, the risks are high, but the reward is even higher. i was so amped up. i was so happy. i was so in a place where not too many people can be. nobody to wait for, nobody to catch up too, nobody complaining, and nobody talking. it was just pure nature! a few people asked me if i was scared of sharks. no. i seen and encountered so many sharks that i’m not scared anymore. if a sharks bites me, it bites me. there is absolutely nothing i can do. it’s their world and i’m in it. i know for a fact there are huge tiger sharks along the whole paddle. the only thing i was scared of was the whales. i know for a fact that huge whales jump all over the place out there. i’ve seen it with my own eyes before. and if one were to jump up and take me out, that wouldn’t be fun. or maybe it would? haha.
i found another hobby. i’m going to try to get my friends into it because it was one of the most amazing experiences for me. i’m still thinking about the sunrise with the birds. still thinking about the waves breaking 50′ up the mountain. still thinking about the beautiful rainbow over diamond head. and still thinking about every stoke i took. my friend keoni told me that he’s never heard of anybody doing what i did. a first time paddler doing that course alone. i’m glad he didn’t tell me before i paddled because it might have made me think about it again. but now i feel like i accomplished a big goal in my life. gave me more confidence in the ocean. and gave me more confidence in my life. i feel like i can do anything if i put my mind to it.
i hope to get my nephews into paddling too. if they can complete a rough long course like that, i’m sure they will be more confident paddling into a 15′ wave at sunset or pipeline. and be able to do it all day long. i’ll call them now. haha.
i shot a few video clips on my journey. check it out.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trgzi5uT-Qg[/youtube]
