wow, the waves were so good today! nobody knew about the new south swell so the lineup was empty and the waves were perfect. our endless summer continues…
over the years, i let friends, friends of friends, and friends of friends of friends leave surfboards at my house. there are so many surfboards here that i can’t even find my own. so after trying to figure out and clean up things, i found my magic single fin under 10 boards. it’s been over 10 years since i seen it. so i dust it off, and take it for a ride today. and boy did it ride good! i love it. it’s a kaysen made by tssc 5’10 single fin perfect for small clean waves. i’ll be riding this board for sure from now on. and to all of you who have boards at my house, it’s time to come and pick them up. i’m cleaning up around here and i can’t get anything done with about a hundred of surfboards all piled on each other. please pick them up or i’ll donate it to some lucky organization.
went to eat at my secret spot. i don’t take people here unless i really trust them. i just don’t want another local underground restaurant in guide books so tourists line up outside. then the prices go up and the portions go down. i’ve seen it happen too many times and it’s pretty sad. some secrets are best kept secret.
shrimp balls. oishi yo!
no facebook, no blogs, no twitter. let’s enjoy this restaurant the old way. keep on going back and nothing changes. let’s just call it for now “I don’t know’s restaurant.” haha.
now why would you want to be anyplace else in the world? blue water, white sand beaches, perfect waves, and surfer girls all over the place. hawaii is surfers paradise!
