good evening… gosh, that a windy day it was today. even though it was windy, the surf in town was super clean. i surfed bowls mid morning and mid afternoon. it was chest high and perfect. shun and ryota were catching waves a 100 yards long. from their first session a couple of weeks ago in hawaii, their surfing level has gone way up. just to see their smile when surfing is awesome. reminds me how it use to be for me when i was younger. surfing was for pure stoke. it still is now but kind of different. i guess i’m a little spoiled…..
want a sneak peak of the new hilton hawaiian lagoon? i took this photo over the fence. this place is going to be packed with tourists. it’s just too beautiful….
i was driving through waikiki and queen’s was going off!!! only 8 guys out and it was chest high and perfect rights. a longboarders dream wave….
anyway, it’s christmas eve and i’m going to relax and enjoy it. i can’t wait till santa comes tonight… good night…..
**and one last thing, just wanted to say HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MY FRIEND MATSUO…. TANJYOBI OMEDETOU GOZAIMASU…. check out matsuo’s blog by CLICKING HERE…..
