good evening. surfed 2 sessions today. the waves were super fun all day long!!!
i took aki ikeda surfing today. he’s from one of the best river mouths in the world, niyodo. i was confused on how to show him a wave here in hawaii when nothing even compares to his home spot? anyway, we pulled up to bowls in the morning. it was clean but crowded. aki wanted to surf an uncrowded wave so that was easy. took him to my secret spot 30 minutes away and we surfed by ourselves for over 2 hours. we caught so many waves and he even got barreled….
then we went to eat yellow chicken curry plate lunch. so good!!!
then we went to the east side to stop by wade tokoro’s house. wade told me that i haven’t missed any good waves since my surgery. that was good news….
then we surfed kualoa’s in the afternoon. the waves were super fun long reforming waves. my kaysen thunderbird was working unreal… i had a fun day of surfing. i’m feeling good and can’t wait for those backdoor days.. look at this photo. can you believe yesterday was flat like a lake? yeah, we were diving on the outside there. today, it was 10′. that’s hawaii….
**huge swell on the way. maybe 30′ hawaiian scale on monday. wade told me that the next swell might be too big for the eddie. really? eddie might go!!! stay tuned… tanoshimi!!!
