good morning. 6:30 am and i’m looking at the waimea bay camera now. it’s dark but i see huge waves breaking on the outside. i’ll find out in a minute or two if the eddie is on. i just checked the buoy and the swell isn’t as big predicted. they are calling this the 40 year swell but we’ll just have to see. looking like stormy conditions out there on the north shore. town is chest high again and super clean. there will be some west swell wrap around later today in town if you know where to look.
**OH, JUST GOT A CALL FROM KINSAN. EDDIE CONTEST CANCELLED FOR TODAY. WAVES 20′ BUT INCONSISTENT AND RAINY. BUMMER!!!
i have this 11’0 thick and wide longboard i use once in a while. the rails were banged up so i got it sanded and i brought it home for a paint job. it looks like new now…
it took a bar of base coat wax and tropical wax to wax up this huge board. of course, the wax is from destination surf. as for the board, i bought it off a friend for a great price. and since i got it, i’ve taught so many kids how to surf. i paddle out, get a wave, and let them stand up on the nose and surf with them. that’s how i started to surf. oh, the memories…
this is just one of the many kids. and many more to come!!! i just love teaching kids how to surf because i know they will never forget this experience with the ocean. i sure didn’t….[:?????$B!x(B???:]
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