WOW!! i pulled up to haleiwa at 7am. the waves were 4-6′ and going off!!!
only 4 surfers out? really?
i paddled out and caught so many waves. what a workout!!
the current was strong, the freak sets about 8′. 3x landing on my head.
i went to the gym last night and lifted weights for 1 hour, then ran for 1 hour.
today’s 2 hour surfing session at haleiwa was healthier and a lot more fun!!!
then i went to watch the pipeline masters. the waves were 6-8′ with some second reef 10′ sets.
backdoor was as good as it gets. i wish i could have one of those sets… maybe tomorrow?
i really don’t like pizza but when your sitting at a contest in the hot sun and super hungry from a long surf session, i’ll eat it. there was this domino’s pizza girl walking around selling pizzas for $10. what a deal!!!
i watched some heats from the beach at pipe. then i came home and watched some heats from my sofa in my A/C house. i prefer watching it from my house….
there is a store between haleiwa and wailua called “The Market”. no where in the world has better fried chicken. this plate cost me $3.50. i ate there for the first time today and i’m going back there again and again. sorry KFC….
