Behind the Scenes: Eddie….

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good morning. 6am and i feel it again. the waves on the north shore should be going off. the buoy is broken so i don’t know how big but i’m guessing 4-6′ and perfect. and another big new swell by this afternoon. i’m going surfing!!! see ya….
i don’t have a long huge lens so i can’t shoot the waves at waimea bay from the beach. i leave that up to the professionals. i just take the shots of the “behind the scenes”… check um out…

this swell was forecasted 10 days before the contest so every single person on the island knew that the eddie was happening. the whole waimea bay was lined up with people from all walks of life….

and if you wanted to use the toilet? good luck. the bushes right behind was a better choice…. or the shower would work too… haha…

talk about timing. i arrived to waimea right as wakita was making his way to the beach for his heat. i didn’t want to miss the moment. i usually cheer for the underdogs and if wakita won the eddie aikau that day, the photos i took of him would be worth millions. and i wouldn’t sell them to any other magazine. tuff shit!!

and last, kinsan called me from the water at 7 am when he got to waimea bay. he ended up shooting ALL DAY on his boogie board. imagine sitting in the channel with no food or water looking over the horizon watching the huge sets come in? on a 8′ pipeline day, there would be 30 water photographers in the water fighting for the best position. for the eddie aikau contest, kinsan was the only guy shooting from a boogie board. that takes guts and determination. that’s what kinsan has. i can’t wait to see the photos!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide