good evening. after that giant eddie aikau swell, all the sand got washed off the beach and formed the best sandbars i’ve ever seen. i pulled up to log cabins this morning around 7 am and i couldn’t believe it. there were no rocks and it looked like a perfect sandbar. all sand and perfect barrels!!! i surfed with mar ono early in the morning. like usual, mar was ripping. then i came in to take a break, then surfed again. left at 10:30 with a happy face…. all the sand that are usually on the beach is now in the water forming perfect sandbars everywhere. daniel jones told me that there are places breaking in front of his house that never broke before.
so if your a sandbar lover, get your ass over to hawaii now. these perfect sandbars won’t last forever….
getting up and surfing early has its benefits. it’s uncrowded, glassy, and no stress. i was driving back to town at 10:30 am with the full day ahead of me… can’t beat that!!!
i drove pass laniakea on the way back and it looked fun there too. i think everywhere was 3-5′ and perfect today!! more swells coming on the north shore. and another surprise south swell starting sunday… yeah!!!
the winds are going to be good next week for some diving. i was working all day on my boat with my brother yesterday. can’t wait to get it back in the water!!!
have a great evening[:????????$B!r(B:]
