good evening. got up early, left early, and surfed early. i didn’t need a surf report today. i knew log cabins was going to be going off again!! and yes it was. the water was crystal clear, the turtles were all over the place, and the waves were barreling… surfed for a while and when i heard the first horn go off for the pipeline masters, i went in, jumped in my car, and went to go watch the contest. OMG means “oh my gosh”. the waves were perfect again!!!
surfing is finally getting recognition in hawaii. i haven’t seen so many people gather for competitions like this. the next step is to get a huge corporate sponsor like mercedes or rolex. then the prize money will get up to par with golf competitions. imagine a surfer winning 2 million dollars each contest? why do golfers get paid that much to walk around a course chasing a little ball? surfers put their life on the line every single wave they paddle into. the exposure of the eddie contest last week and the pipe contest this week is amazing. i just hope the big corporations are watching and surf companies like quiksilver and billabong move on the side and let the big boys drop the big bucks the surfers deserve….
as for the waves. OMG!! going off all day. the level of surfing is higher than ever. i can’t wait till the contest finishes so everybody jumps on a plane and goes back home. then it’s our turn.. yes, us surfers living here in hawaii waiting for days like this…
tomorrow will be the last day. well, hopefully. i shot some photos today and i took a bunch like this one i pulled off the web. every single wave was breaking right and left. it was amazing….
