when we have swells out of the north direction, laniakea turns into a world class wave. a super long point right that is fairly easy to surf. that’s why people from all levels come out to surf there. last week, i counted 80 surfers out there.
and if you think it’s easy to get a wave out there, forget it. you have to be an asshole at times and drop in. i have no friends when i surf out there. haha.
when i was in argentina, i went to visit Evita’s grave. the funny thing is i didn’t even know who she was. so i sat in my room the next day and watched the movie. watching Evita: Don’t cry for me Argentina in Argentina was weird. but cool at the same time. a great movie and a great women.
i went to watch kelly slater’s heat yesterday at sunset. a lot of people have been saying that kelly’s not a true champion because he never won a contest at sunset beach. yeah, he won everywhere else, but sunset beach is a total different game. so kelly entered the contest to try to win and shut everybody up. but the 11x world champ lost in the 4th round. when he came out of the water, you could see how disappointed he was. poor champion! but pipeline is next week and i bet he will win it.
i surfed with Morita-san when he came to hawaii. a super good guy and a super good surfer.
it’s nice to see japanese surfers so happy in paradise.
surfing towards diamond head. you have to love this view!
