2 days ago i load up my car with a 6’0 short board and a thin competition leash and head to the north shore. i thought the waves were small but when i pulled up to backdoor, i was wrong. the waves were 6′ and pretty hollow. this day was the first time in my life i paddled out a short board in such large waves. it was crowded and everybody was hungry! good to be back in the north shore office. a love and hate relationship. my sister always on the beach supporting her kids and me too. thanks sis!
watching the internet is pretty cool, especially when you know millions are watching too. and too see your young nephew making his debut as a rookie surfing the most prestigious is priceless. josh, you did good dude! i’m so dam proud of you mixing it up with the biggest names pro surfing has to offer.
equal 3rd place for the rookie of the triple crown. what a huge accomplishment.
i was introduced to the ocean at a young age. it stuck with me my whole life and now i make a living off the ocean. it is my duty to share it with the next generations. so to take kid surfing, diving, or just paddling for the first time is something i love to do. some may love it, some may not. i never push any kid because their day will come. thanks toda-san for the photo.
and hey, the north shore season is coming alive. love it, hate it, or leave it!
solid south swell continues. north/west swell on saturday. hawaii is surfers paradise and if you don’t believe me, come and see it for yourself!
