Super People and Always ONE!

231

day 2 here and it’s freezing cold. when i get back to hawaii, i promise that i will never complain about hawaii being cold. if it wasn’t for my heat tech underwear, i’d be frozen. i’m wearing the same clothes everyday as i learned from backpacking SA that’s the way to travel. i always freak out when i hear of japanese tourists coming to hawaii for only 2 or 3 days. i sometimes think that’s crazy. but now my thoughts have changed. i’ve been here for only 2 days and what i already experienced is priceless. every time i leave hawaii, my life changes. this 3 day trip made me realize that it’s not the days spent abroad, it’s the experiences you make out of it. so the next time my japanese friends come to hawaii for 2 or 3 days, i’m going to help them make it a trip to remember. cheers.
photo 5
these are my 2 Japanese Superwomen! Ryoko-san and Naomi-san are 2 of the strongest women i’ve ever met. it’s a long story how we all met, but life is so amazing on how bad events can create great friendships. these women will be a part of my life forever.
photo copy
last night was an amazing night. we all got together in ishinomaki and had dinner. some of us are surfers, fishermen, office workers, flight attendants, wetsuit makers, electricians, and photographers. but we have one thing in common, “WE ARE ONE.” to my Tohoku friends and ONE members, last light meant a lot to me. a lot of people ask me why i still go to tohoku. here is my answer. i come here to see you all. i’ve met you right after 3/11 and back then, i couldn’t smile. i was heartbroken and totally devastated. and ever since then, i could see the smiles and joy come back slowly. we are almost 2 years after and it touches me to be able to sit down with you, joke, laugh, and even share tears at times, i’m so happy to have met you all. you have all changed me life and made me a better person. i appreciate everything i have, and everything i don’t have. you give me power every time i find myself feeling down. i want to work harder, i want to be happier, and i want to live my life to the fullest. you are like family to me and i love you all! gosh, i better stop before i start crying. We will Always be One! And I will always be back!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide