good evening. i drove by waikiki at 8 am this morning and the waves were flat. it’s the smallest day i’ve seen so far this year. for you south shore surfers, don’t get bummed out. this is normal. the past 2 years during our winter, we scored all kinds of south swells. it’s time to strap on your balls and go north!!! i mean north shore…
so west side it was. i got a call from maki-san and she told me tracks was looking sweet… and sweet it was…. thanks for the surf report maki-san. and for all you MMA fans, don’t forget to check out BJ Penn at the sheraton local motion tonight from 7-9 pm. i dare you to walk up to him and say “what, you like beef?” haha… if you love your life, you better not….
shin-san and i grabbed our TSSC matchi shaped boards and surfed, surfed, and surfed!!! it was so sunny, hot, clean water, and fun!!!!
i was just sitting in the inside and catching the leftovers. and i had a great time. i think i like watching surfing just as much as surfing. the other day i was sitting in the channel at sunset with kinsan. we were having a great time watching everybody surf. the wipeouts, the drop-in’s, and all the other crazy things….
we drove by diamond head after lunch and the waves looked pretty fun. it was small but don’t tell that to somebody that just came from flat freezing japan. shin-san was happy and i totally understand his feeling. you just have to live in japan for a while to know the feeling.. as for me, i wasn’t only checking the surfing conditions, i was checking the diving conditions too. and guess what? it looked great!!!
