good evening. first, merry christmas to you all! hope your all enjoying your day! i woke up this morning and checked the waves. packed!! everywhere was freaking packed!!! surfers, boggieboarders, longboarders, stand up paddlers, and just about every surfer was in the ocean. i felt like surfing a good wave with not too many guys out. so after thinking about it, i remembered a spot i use to surf a long time ago. i headed straight there and the waves were freaking going off!!! perfect point break right with only a few guys out. it’s been 20 years since i paddled out there and i couldn’t have been happier!! surfed perfect rights for 2 hours in epic glassy conditions. then as i was going in, johnny boy gomes came out. yeah, pipeline master champion johnny boy gomes. it was great to see him and surf with him. it was another perfect day in paradise…
where did i surf? i can’t tell you. all i can say is there are these tall coconut trees on the beach. dawn patrol tomorrow morning? sounds like the plan!!!
**check out some photos that came through today….
thank you hosaka-san from osaka. what country are you in now?
thank you craig from halekulani. nice fish!! get ready for a big go-naminori party!! call you…
thank you junior from yokohama. is this your friend?
thanks jon from seattle. nice right hand point break!! call me for the next swell….
thank you masato-san from lanui. still can’t wait to eat your ramen…
thank you mizoguchi twins. see you in hawaii soon!!!
thanks kaz from novus. great photo of santa’s hawaiian helpers….
and wanted to with matsuo-san a “Happy Birthday”… surf forever!!!
**and wanted to thank everybody else that sent me christmas cards and wishes. i was freaking out when i opened my email and seen 342 emails this morning. but you know what? when i think about it, i’m so happy and so fortunate to have so many kind people around me. thank you all from all around the world!!!
BE HAPPY, THINK POSITIVE, AND SURF YOUR DREAMS!!! GO-NAMINORI[:?????$B!x(B???:]
