Christmas Swell Coming!

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gosh, i don’t remember the last time it’s been so cold here in hawaii. for the past 2 weeks, the winds been chilly, and when i jumped in the water the next day i got back from japan, OMG! it was pretty cold. cold, but good cold. super refreshing and when the sun came out today, it felt awesome. but yeah, the winter weather is supposed to continue this week and next. it’s really feeling like christmas!
Screen shot 2012-12-22 at 3.14.23 PM
and the waves on the north shore hasn’t been normal ever since the last day of the pipeline masters. but good news is the next north/west swell is coming right on christmas day. i’m guessing 8-10′ and good! thank you santa!
tdy-121220-xmas-tree-through-the-roof-01.photoblog500
what a great idea? or not a great idea?
tdy-121220-xmas-tree-through-the-roof-03.photoblog500
yeah, this is a great idea. i might poke a hole in my roof tomorrow and buy a bigger christmas tree. haha.
keep warm and keep smiling!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide