i’m so happy to be able to surf such fun waves in town in december. usually it’s flat but not this year. the waves were so fun! thank you Shin-san for the awesome day!
i probably flew in every airline and every size of aircraft between hawaii and japan on economy and business class. my first choice for business class has to be delta airlines. BUT!!!! make sure you check the aircraft before you buy your ticket because just because you’re flying business class, that doesn’t mean you will get a full flat seat. some airplanes are just different and if i were you, i’d check first. this is not the flat seats of delta business class. it seems so small compared to the new flat seats. and no, i’m not spoiled.
want to congratulate my friend Tomoka from okinawa! after winning the gold medal, she told me that her next goal is 80 meters or 263 feet! and she did it recently in the bahamas. good job Tomoka!
and last. my friend Dwayne went into a coma last month after drowning at sandy beach. he was hooked up to machines and was fighting for his life. then he just woke up a few weeks later? miracle? right after i came back from my SA trip, i went to the hospital to visit him. the nurse told me that he already went home. so i called him and we talked story. he told me that he won’t rush to get back into the water because he wanted to take it slow. then yesterday, i paddle out to bowls and there he was!!! thank goodness i had my camera. i was so glad to see Dwayne back in the water for the first time since the accident. the miracle was he was sitting in the same spot he always sits, and he was surfing as good as he always did. unbelievable! i gave him a big hug and felt like i was hugging a miracle surfer. hey Dwayne, it’s good to see you back in the lineup, and it’s just good to see you period! you inspire me dude!
**i always tell my family and friends to pull me off the machine if i don’t get up after 3 days. now please wait for 2 weeks. thanks.
