good evening. wow. so tired. went up early to the north shore and the waves were good. i didn’t have a great session but it felt good just to be in the water watching powerful 8′ waves break over people, on people, and break surfboards. i’m getting sunburned because i’ve been surfing so much so i’m finally returning to my normal color, which is black.
pulling up and checking the waves is exciting, especially after seeing the first barrels of the morning. this is backdoor/pipeline/off-the-wall….
check out these cool plants they sell at kansai airport. they live months and months with just a few drops of water. mine are still going healthy and strong..
here’s how magazines work. big companies spend thousands of dollars placing advertisements. then the magazine has the responsibility of circulating the tens of thousands they promise. what happens when nobody buys magazines anymore? they find any way to get it out there. this is one way. $5/yearly subscriptions including shipping to your door. yes, $5 for 12 issues sent to your house every month. deal? yup, i think so…
**and last, check out the new 2010 Red Sea Ocean Adventures calendar. cool for the wall in 2010. want one? click on the bottom to order…. thanks kyle for putting a shot of hayato and i picking jumbo oysters in wakayama….
