Camera Download and Grandpa

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oh my gosh! the waves were so good today. did some yoga this morning, then surfed some awesome waves in town with the kids. a 5 year old, a 9 year old, and two 11 year old. we were all out there surfing the inside and having fun! i was watching the outside and seen some solid head high perfect waves. i’m sure tomorrow will be good too. today was like a summer hot day in paradise. thank you wind for stopping and thank you sun for shining.
OnoandNiwa
finally downloaded the photos off my camera. this is Ono-san and Niwa-san in hawaii last month. we had such a great time! cool guys!
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and yes, it’s winter here in hawaii but the sun still shines and the rainbows are all over the place.
DaiandTatsu
then surfed with Dai-san and Tatsu-san out at diamond head. yes, surfing is fun where ever you go.
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the cool thing about surfing diamond head is the hike down the trail, the walk along the beach, and the paddle out. once you’re out there, the view is priceless. so priceless that i forgot to take a photo of diamond head from the lineup. gomenasai.
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the walk along the beach is pretty cool too. something way different than waikiki.
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i went to visit my grandpa today. he’s 93 years old and so healthy! i hope i can live a long healthy life too. merry chirstmas grandpa!
as for tomorrow, good waves and good conditions everywhere! good night!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide