Bear Attack!!!

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good morning. 5:30 am. small waves today. it’s coming back up tonight!!! it looks like it’s going to be a great new years day for surfers!!! hey, i’m running late. gotta go. have a nice day!!!

when ever i have to check the ocean for surfing or diving, i go to this cool place up in the mountain. i can see everywhere!!! from this photo, i could tell that there is vog from the volcano in hawaii, i could tell the winds were light, and i could tell that the south shore was 2′ and perfect for a surf at a secret spot. so that’s where i went to have a good 3 hour surf session!!

diamond head looked fun too but why surf with 30 other people?

today the waves are small so it’s time for my mental and physical training program. wish me luck!!!

and last, i think it’s crazy when people try to screw around with bears. this guy jumped into a bear cage at the zoo and paid the price. stupid!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide