woke up early, went to my secret spot, caught some super good waves while watching the sun come up. gosh, i wish i had my camera. red skies!!!! came home to open christmas presents and now going to the north shore. hope not to get stuck in the traffic. the waves are huge and dangerous. high surf warning up for the north shores and it’s for professionals only. see you out there!
this is pipeline @ 8am. it’s only going to get bigger and bigger.
and guess what? there is even a bigger swell on the way. december 30th swell should be bigger than this one. waimea bay? eddie aikau? we’ll just have to wait and see.
anyway, hope you have a great merry christmas day. christmas is the happiest day of the year for everybody in hawaii, including me. i’m so happy!!!!
