Motorcross and Big Waves!

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i pulled up to my sisters house they rent on the north shore yesterday and i saw the kids and tony getting ready for a motorcycle mountain trail ride.
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tony, isaiah, and seth on the first round. when they left, i couldn’t wait for them to come back because i wanted to ride too. it’s been about 15 years since i rode and i was ready for the challenge again.
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this is the view from the deck of the house. we were on the table talking story and watching the beautiful waves. joshua had tammy’s camera and took these photos.
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this is Nathen or John John Florence dropping in on a big one. these kids paddled out from the beach. i took some photos too but i forgot my camera at the house. gosh, i’m losing my mind!
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i went riding with tony and seth. if we had the video camera from our ride yesterday, it would be hilarious. i flipped over the handlebars 2 times in the trails. and i almost killed myself by flipping backwards trying to make it up this steep hill. 3 times wipeout and tony said, “hey, enough already before you get hurt.” gosh, i want to go back and try again. yeah, i might get hurt but the challenge is just too tempting.
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my beautiful niece kelia moniz is going back to california tomorrow. it’s hard to believe she’s world champion because she’s just a normal girl just having fun. i’m pretty sure she will win a few more world titles before she retires.
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and hey, 3 giant swells are heading to hawaii. december 30th will be the first one and there is a good chance the eddie aikau contest at waimea bay might GO! stay tuned for updates.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide