Mango Season???

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i left early to the north shore knowing that the south/west winds were on the way. the wind outside my house was strong when i left so i was racing against time. passed by laniakea and seen it turning side/onshore already so i cranked a u-turn and headed to a spot that i totally forgot about. had a feeling it was going to be good…

and the feeling was right. it was better than good, it was epic!!! light off shore winds, head high, and perfect lefts. and best yet, NOBODY OUT!! nobody out on a sunday? this spot is a secret spot my friend todd took me too about 10 years ago. i totally forgot how good it gets with the south/west winds. i surfed for 2 hours and caught 20 perfect lefts!!! good call. thanks todd…

fried chicken, fried ika, and a musubi for lunch, or should i say brunch….

mango season? i’ve never seen mangos on a tree at this time of year. look around and you won’t find any. i took this photo yesterday at my grandpa’s house. 2 months more and i’m eating ripe juicy mangos…

i stopped by to feed kalua some potatoes. he didn’t eat them so i asked the neighbor why? she told me “did you put butter on them?” i thought she was joking. but she wasn’t. gosh, what a spoiled pig!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide