i never push kids into surfing. i know their time will come when they want to surf and i just let them know that i’ll be here for them. i took these 2 girls surfing since they were babies. when ever they asked me to take them, we went. then recently, they started getting so excited about surfing so we’ve been going as much as possible. both are 11 years old now. and now they paddle out, take off, and surf the waves together. screaming at the turtles surfing in the waves with them, and laughing at each other as they ride the waves. i just sit on the outside laughing to myself and little do they know i’m probably happier than them. people might think i’m mean by making these girls carry their own boards to and from the beach, but i want to teach them the right way to become respected surfer girls in hawaii. they rode 22 waves together in one hour. another perfect day in paradise!
Kyle asked me to go diving yesterday but i had to work. he ended up spearing a big ono so he cut me a slab of sashimi for new years. thanks for sharing Kyle and hope to go dive next time.
i missed out the incredible surf session at pipeline today. the waves were crazy and if you were crazy enough to paddle out, you could get the wave of your life. just ask brazilian Ricardo Dos Santos who got one of the waves of the day. i’m so jealous. haha.
and heard Seth and Shun were out there too. i’m so stoked to see these boys pushing their limits. i always had faith in these 2 boys and i know that they will both be respected surfers in their respected countries, Hawaii and Japan! i took this photo of them a long time ago after we surfed all day. they were so hungry so we went to ichiriki and ate so much nabe! good job boys. how classic is this photo? haha.
Check out this video I did of Seth and Shun 4 years ago. They slept over my house and I woke them up for a dawn patrol session at Bowls. So funny!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNYpMv-mbRs[/youtube]
