good morning. 5 am aloha friday!!! pitch dark outside but no wind so the waves should be good. see you in the water!!!
when i was driving to the north shore yesterday, there was a police with a radar on the road going down to haleiwa. it was the first time i seen one there. and on the way back, there was another police with a radar on the other road leaving haleiwa. speeders, beware!!!
there is this nice left reform down at mokulea. even though north shore was 15′, this place was still surfable…
i was going to surf kaiko’s yesterday in the evening and when i pulled up to the parking, i seen 5 police cars there. oh no? what did i do again???
they weren’t there for me, they were there because somebody broke into a surfers car. well, broke the window and stole everything. can you believe they did it right in front of houses in a upper class neighborhood? the robbers are getting brave these days. i blacked out the poor guys face because i don’t want to reveal his identity. he didn’t look too happy and neither would i have been. i just thought that these are the kind of photos that need to be posted so you can take more precaution when parking your car. but the sad thing is that i thought it was pretty safe there. now where am i going to park my car?
i checked diamond head after that. and it was small like i thought. diamond head doesn’t catch the west swell wrap around too good. so i went home and took a nap. that was really fun!!!
i surfed a really good wave yesterday morning. there was only 1 guy out when i paddled out and we were surfing epic waves as the sun was rising. it was amazing!! i came in and took photos for my blog but decided not to post it. the reason for that is because there was only one other guy out for a reason. if that spot ever gets crowded, i don’t want to be the one to blame. maybe in 10 years when everybody starts surfing there, i’ll post the photos i took this morning. it was that good….
