today is one of those days when you wake up and look out the window and see the rain and wind, you go right back to sleep. but not me, i left my house at 7am, and i just got back in now at 6pm. surfed 2 round for 5 hours, caught some great waves, and had the most fun with another amazing family.
meet the Kaneko-san family. 2 brothers and 2 sons enjoying the ocean. Kaneko-san, Masaru-san, Rei-kun, and Hiyo-kun. the total wave count between the 5 of us had to be over a hundred waves. we caught every wave that broke in the ocean today. haha. great family, great surfers, and great time!
after 3 hours of round 1, we checked diamond head. Kaneko-san paddled out so his total surf time yesterday was 6 hours. unbelievable.
then we jump back in the car and head to ala moana where we had a little perfect left to ourselves for 2 hours. wave after wave after wave. i’m super tired but super happy too! to see the kids connect to the ocean is like a dream for me. i’m stoked to be a part of that!
then of course, my favorite shave ice at waiola. like i tell everybody that comes to hawaii, there is no shave ice like this in japan. and once you try it, you will know what i’m talking about.
anyway, hopefully the weather gets better soon because everything is so wet and stinky here. need some sun to dry out our island. i hope you have a great night sleep because i sure will. last night i fell asleep at 9:15pm and tonight might be even earlier. haha. sweet dreams!
