good morning. 7:30 am and clean waves around the island. believe it or not, there’s still waves on the south shore. bowls is chest high and EPIC!! the waves look so perfect and 20 guys are already out. pipeline looks 3-5′ and clean. no backdoor shootout contest today so if you want to get barreled, get out there. i bet a spot down at mokuleia is going off right now. perfect size, and perfect winds. ummm… tough call but i’m out of here… have a nice day!!!
yesterday i pulled up to bowls and was the first one to paddle out. it was pitch dark but i think my eyes are adjusting to the darkness because i caught so many good waves. i can’t wait till the next full moon, i’m surfing all night long….
by 7:30 am, i was finished. when i came in, people were asking me “wow, early yeah? what, going to work from now?” i told them “no, i just finished work.” haha…
been eating oranges for breakfast and it’s been tasting pretty dam good. you can’t ask for a sweeter vitamin C. and if it wasn’t for DOVE WETSUITS, i wouldn’t be surfing early in the morning or late in the evening. i’m so warm in the water and when i see other people wearing wetsuits and still cold, i just laugh. something must be wrong. thanks dove for keeping me warm all the time….
remember that shell i found diving last time? i just polished it and it’s now in my collection. nice yeah[:?????$B!x(B???:]
