finally!!! welcome back to hawaii! this year started off rough but when i woke up this morning and seen the clear blue sky, i knew it was going to be a great day! a little windy, but you couldn’t ask for anything more. sunny, warm, and sunburn!
paddling out to bowls early this morning watching the sunrise was amazing. the waves came up from yesterday and not too many people out. score!
Tou-san and i surfed for over 3 hours. i’d say she caught about 50 waves this morning. a very energetic girl super stoked on surfing. she is a firefighter in chigasaki, japan. wanted to say hello to Seiji-san and the other firefighters! i respect all of you!
this is called Hiyoko manjyu. thank you Tou-san. hope you enjoy the rest of your first hawaiian trip!
oishi desu. i love japanese snacks!
and last, wanted to thank Matsu for sending me this new years photo from Austria. gosh, i wish i were there! someday….
well, winds backing down all week with waves on the north shore. should be some good surfing going on. see you out there!
