i had a great time surfing with Takei-san this morning. big east swell, trade winds? i checked everywhere this morning but forgot about a locals only spot that’s really good with these conditions. we paddled out and surfed with my 2 local friends guy and clint. head high and perfect rights! we scored! then came in and long boarded rock piles with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. only us and super fun waves. another long day in the water and it’s time for dinner: JUICY STEAK! and OMG, i think i better cut my hair?
went through my old i photo looking for video clips. found some classic videos i took throughout the years i haven’t posted on youtube. just going to hang on to it. also found some photos that weren’t published in the mags so wanted to share them with you. here is Kekoa Mau in East Indonesia. nice fat dogtooth tuna Kekoa!
last, this passenger got drunk in an airplane so the flight crew and some other passengers tied him up to his chair. haha. behave everyone!
have a great evening and keep on surfing!
